A small crescent of toast-gold sand lined with coconut palms and squeezed between two rocky bluffs topped with tropical foliage, Bai Rang Beach is a pretty little spot located just off the main road, 15km south of Quy Nhon. The coastline in this part of Phu Yen Province is a complex mix of rocky coves, outcrops, and fingers of rugged land that meet ocean like a spread hand, between which crescents of white sand create perfect secluded beaches, of which Bai Rang is just one of many. But I prefer Bai Rang above the other beaches here, because it’s still a working beach with a local fishing community, and only low-key tourist infrastructure: a couple of informal seafront eateries with hammocks and showers is all that graces the sand. The swimming is good and there’s even some modest coral in the bay; the water is shallow enough to feel safe and the bay is sheltered so it’s generally calm; the beach is fine, golden sand with some rocky outcrops at both ends; casuarina trees grow at one end of the bay, giving way to coconut palms at the other; coracles, nets and other fishing paraphernalia are drawn-up onto the sand and a clutch of blue-painted wooden fishing boats moor offshore.

A long stretch of lovely, sandy bays punctuated by slabs of black, volcanic rock, Ong Lang Beach is situated on the central northwest coast of Phu Quoc Island. More of a chain of connected mini-bays than a long, unbroken beach, Ong Lang is peaceful, calm, green, and serene. The swimming is good, the water is generally clean, and there’s even some OK snorkeling just offshore. The beach, which is backed by coconut palms and casuarina trees for most of its length, turns to fertile red earth just a few metres inland from the sea, where tropical gardens, fruits orchards, and exotic flowers grow in abundance. In the shade of all this foliage, a network of narrow paved lanes is now a thriving tourist enclave, featuring boutique resorts in all price-brackets, organic-produce shops, hipster cafes, smooth bars, and Western restaurants. But, unlike other popular beaches on the Phu Quoc Island, most of the development here has been low-rise and, occasionally, low-impact. Just as everywhere else on the island, Ong Lang has grown enormously in popularity over the last few years. But, somehow, it retains a low-key atmosphere, and remains an extremely attractive place to stay for a few days. Whether you’re a family, a couple, or a group of backpackers, Ong Lang Beach has got you covered. The general level of accommodation across all budgets is excellent.

An hours’ drive north of Nha Trang lies a chubby peninsula whose forested mountains give way on both sides to gorgeous bays, beaches, coves and lagoons. On the north side, a series of long, arcing beaches front the beautiful and serene waters of Van Phong Bay. Doc Let Beach, at the northeast of the peninsula, features long, white sands and calm seas, that are best experienced at Some Days of Silence or camping near the beach. Further south, beyond the Hyundai shipping port, is another wonderful bay, which has become known as ‘Jungle Beach’ after the success of the eponymous backpacker retreat at the centre of the bay. (Although Jungle Beach has changed hands from the original owners, it’s still in operation). Right at the southern tip of the peninsula, Ninh Van is the kind of sleepy fishing hamlet one wished there were more of in Vietnam. This peaceful spot is now home to the excellent NinVana Backpackers Hostel. Ninh Van village is the end of the road, but, around the western side of the peninsula, are three extremely luxurious resorts, famed throughout Vietnam: Six Senses, An Lam Retreats and L’Ayla. Only accessible by private boat, you’ll need to splash out to stay here, but you’re unlikely to be disappointed.

A terrific stretch of sand and sea running for about 10km, Lien Huong Beach is seldom visited by foreign travellers, who congregate instead at nearby Mui Ne. Unlike Mui Ne, Lien Huong Beach has practically no tourist infrastructure at all; however, an excellent road leads along its entire length with easy access to kilometres of empty beach. Between the road and the beach, small sand dunes lie in the shade of whispering casuarina trees. The sand is powdery, fine, and white, and the ocean is blue and shallow. It’s a lovely, long beach that’s great for a swim and a picnic. But, sadly, Lien Huong Beach has suffered terribly in the last few years from picnickers neglecting to take their rubbish away with them: plastic bags, empty beer cans, and polystyrene boxes have completely ruined much of this amazing stretch of coast. Nonetheless, with your own wheels, you should still be able to find an unspoiled section.