Between Hoi An and Danang, on the central coast, stretches 30km of unbroken beach. Although, technically, this is one, long bay, in reality the beach is divided into sections and given different names. You could choose any part of this long beach, but An Bang (near Hoi An) and My Khe (near Danang) are particularly pleasant sections. The former has a trendy, vaguely hipster vibe, with bars selling craft beer, boutique resorts, Western restaurants, cool cafes, and an expat enclave. But, most importantly, the sand and sea here is excellent (although coastal erosion is a growing concern). My Khe is essentially the municipal beach of Danang, which is currently one of the most exciting and appealing cities in Vietnam. These days, My Khe is backed by dozens of high-rises hotels and Danang’s increasingly impressive skyline. The beach, which is wide and sandy, is kept very tidy. There’s a seafront walkway under palm trees, deckchairs, beach sports, bars, and cafes. The surf on My Khe is meant to be some of the best and most reliable in Vietnam. In any case, there’s always a certain buzz about this beach, as there is about Danang.

At the southeastern tip of Phu Quy Island, way out in the East Sea, Bai Nho Beach is accessed via a steep, grassy pathway leading down from the coast road. The beach is a slice of white sand and black rocks in the shadow of the enormous Phu Quy Flagpole. The coast here is weather-beaten and barren: the exposed bluffs are treeless, covered in a heather-like brush. The water is clear and bright-blue where the white sand slides under the surf, but out in the bay it becomes bruised where large submerged rocks lurk beneath the swell. The sunshine brings out the vibrant tropical colours of Bai Nho Beach; but when overcast, the coastline takes on a bleak, Hebridean quality. I find it a compelling spot: not only for swimming in the lovely water (although it can get very rough and dangerous at times), but also for hiking along the rugged cliffs that stretch either side of the beach. Great volcanic escarpments, with swollen ruptures and gaping fissures, meet the sea where an old military bunker keeps a look out. Litter on Bai Nho Beach is in the form of a crust of flotsam and jetsam consisting of polystyrene and fishing equipment washed up from the wider ocean, but it’s generally bearable. There’s rarely anyone here on weekdays, but weekends see a flurry of domestic day-trippers.

Only a couple of hours’ drive east of Ho Chi Minh City, the beaches of Ho Tram and Ho Coc are the best stretches of sand and sea available within easy reach of Vietnam’s largest city. Ho Tram and Ho Coc may not be the prettiest beaches on this list, but their proximity to the southern commercial hub and an increasing range of accommodation options, make them very convenient for city dwellers looking for a quick mini-break by the sea. Ho Tram Beach boasts over ten kilometres of fine sand backed by casuarina trees. To the west of the beach, a long sandbar, formed by the Ray River, is a scenic location, with the East Sea on one side and the river and mangrove forest on the other. Ho Tram Beach is fast becoming a high-end retreat for wealthy Saigon residents: by far the best accommodation is Ho Tram Boutique Resort, which also features the best-kept stretch of sand. Ho Coc, which is the next beach east of Ho Tram, is an arc of light-coloured sand backed by densely jungled hills. On a clear day, the curving bay, blue sea and green hills are very picturesque. Accommodation options in Ho Coc are generally cheaper than Ho Tram. Swimming in Ho Coc is marginally better than Ho Tram, but both beaches have strong currents and the water quality varies according to the season.

This is where I’ll start and end. After a walk around Ben Thanh market and some lunch to get my bearings the next task will be to get a massage. My body is in knots thanks to the London Triathlon I recently did and sitting at computers for 12 hours+ every day. Sounds like Kristin from camelsandchocolate.com had an awesome time at Jasmine Spa in Ho Chi Minh City – I’ve added that to my list of places to check out. In fact I’ve spent just shy of an hour poring over the menu deciding between the massages. I’ll get back to that one.

I absolutely definitely want to go on a little boat trip down the Mekong Delta too. I’m hoping I don’t have the same experience as Audrey from thatbackpacker.com on her Vietnam travel blog, but I guess at least her problem trip made for a good story, even if she was put at risk of avian flu. As soon as I see the shops on boats and locals wearing the pyramid hats I’ll feel like I’ve arrived.