Located along the central stretch of Phu Quoc Island’s east coast, Cay Sao Beach is slowly beginning to attract more visitors, ever since the East Coast Road was paved a couple of years back. Although Cay Sao doesn’t have the long sandy beaches and turquoise waters of the west coast (Cay Sao is very shallow and tidal), it does have a very appealing air of tranquility and an attractive languorous ambience that used to characterize most of Phu Quoc Island before the advent of tourism a decade ago. The southern section of Cay Sao is a sprawling, shallow bay: sometimes very pretty with large swathes of trees leading right to the water’s edge; other times a bit scruffy with fishing and building debris. The central section is the most up-and-coming part of Cay Sao Beach. This is where a cluster of lovely, small, mid-range resorts have opened up over the last year or so, thus drawing the attention of travellers. The landscape and seascape here are alluring: to the east, the water is glassy and like a mirror to the sky, while to the west the densely jungled ridges of Phu Quoc National Park rise dramatically. The northern section of Cay Sao is also starting to attract investment and visitors. A handful of smart resorts, and the relocation of Rory’s Beach Bar here, are indications that Cay Sao is set for big things in the future.

Cam Ranh Bay, just south of Nha Trang, is a splendid natural harbour surrounded by hills. From its southern shores, a rugged horn of land projects northwards into the bay: this is Cam Lap Promontory. Accessed via a steep, narrow, paved lane leading off the spectacular Nui Chua Coast Road, Cam Lap Promontory is characterized by giant boulder piles which rise from the calm, blue waters of the bay. Despite all this rock, the entire peninsula is cloaked in foliage: eucalyptus plantations occupy the high-ground, giving way to shady groves of cashew and mango trees on the low-ground. The trees and boulders continue right to the waters’ edge, where the waves have slowly eroded the rocks into fine white sand. The eastern side of the promontory boasts a series of gently arcing bays with excellent white-sand beaches separated by giant boulders lying in the sand like unfinished sculptures (there’s even some decent coral just offshore). Sadly, the beaches and water quality have degraded in recent years, thanks to a surge is the local fishing industry (mostly lobster fishing) and general litter discarded by visitors and the local community. Nearby, Binh Tien Beach is a long and lovely stretch of sand and blue water that, despite being slated for major development for years, is still mostly empty.

At the end of a series of small, paved lanes, Mui Yen is a beautiful and very peaceful spot at the tip of a headland which almost touches Hon Yen, a rocky islet comprised of geometric volcanic rock formations. Although there’s no sandy beach, swimming and snorkeling are both good here, because the water is so clear and there’s some coral and colourful starfish in the bay. There’s something timeless and poetic about Mui Yen that has captured visitors for many years. A small shrine sits atop the sandy cape, below which a collection of Chinese-style circular tombs cluster around the volcanic rocks leading down to the sea, watched over by the black wall of rock on Hon Yen Islet. Mui Yen has a few local cafes with hammocks under tropical almond trees, where you can swing in the sea breeze, drinking a coconut while taking in the views over the picturesque coastal scene. However, if sand is what you’re looking for, just around the north side of Mui Yen Cape (accessed via more narrow lanes) is Phu Thuong Beach. Also known as Yen Beach, this is a long, gorgeous sweep of sand between two volcanic cliffs. It’s an absolutely stunning setting, and as yet there’s no development whatsoever. Lap it up while you still can, because this beach has ‘International Luxury Hotel Chain’ written all over it. The swimming is marvellous and the sea is bright blue.

Probably one of the most dramatically situated beaches in Vietnam, Hang Cau is a seam of white-coral sand swept beneath the giant, swirling contours of an arch-like cliff-cave. In the northeast of Ly Son Island, the surf at Hang Cau breaks about 100m offshore, where a line of reefs protects the beach from large rollers. The sea is crystal clear and the air always has a slight mist caused by the spray of the surf drifting up from the ocean and into the cave. Hang Cau is an incredibly atmospheric place and very striking: it has a somewhat mythical quality, and would make a good setting for the Scylla and Charybdis episode in Homer’s ‘The Odyssey’. However, swimming isn’t that easy because of reefs, surf and rocks. It’s fine for experienced sea swimmers, but for those who aren’t too comfortable in the ocean, it might be better to look at rather than to bathe in.