The coastal region between Hue and Dong Hoi, in central Vietnam, is rarely explored by foreign visitors: most people, if they stop here at all, head inland to war-related sites around the former DMZ. This has left a barely believable stretch of unbroken beach almost entirely unvisited. Coastal back-roads, covering almost 200km of completely empty beach, lead from Hue to Dong Hoi. Characterized by calm blue sea and long arcs of bright sand where fishermen pull up their svelte-looking wood-and-weave fishing canoes, these roads take you along a glistening coastline strewn with royal-style tombs. At regular intervals, little concrete pathways lead off to the beach. Take any of these and you’ll emerge from the trees onto seemingly endless swathes of white sand and sparkling blue sea. You’ll need your own wheels, of course, and there’s a fair amount of fishing-related debris left on the sand: these are working beaches. Try to avoid October-March, as the sea can be rough and the weather grim during these months.

Ngang Beach is located on Dao Be, a tiny volcanic islet off the coast of central Vietnam. The islet is mostly flat (indeed, it’s not much more than an oversized reef), but at the northern tip several strands of black volcanic rock (presumably formed by lava when it reached the sea) coalesce to from a series of jagged cliffs and coves. One of these coves hides a powdery, flour-white, sandy beach dotted with colourful fishing coracles. The surf is perfect blue as it washes up on the white beach beneath the black cliffs, and the juxtaposition of colours is eye-popping. Swimming is good, and there are a few refreshment shacks nearby. Trash used to be a major problem here, but a couple of years ago a new and innovative recycling scheme was implemented, which has been hugely effective in cleaning up the environment on the islet. Ngang Beach is reached via fast boats to Dao Be, which shuttle passengers from the bigger island of Ly Son. There are also a few good homestays on Dao Be.

Formed by a tongue of rugged land that spreads southwest, sheltering the main shoreline from the winds and weather coming off the East Sea, Vung Ro is a large bay dotted with hundreds of floating homes, fish farms and wooden fishing boats. A dramatic backdrop is created by craggy, forested mountains that culminate in an 80-metre-high, free-standing slab of stone atop the highest peak, known as Núi Đá Bia – ‘Tombstone Mountain’. North of the main bay, there’s a perfect V-shaped inlet, filled with golden sand, called Bai Mon. This fabulous beach is great for swimming when calm and body-surfing when rough. However, several people have mentioned a strong current that can be dangerous, but this must be seasonal, because I’ve never experienced a pull when swimming at Bai Mon before. With calm, clear waters, rocky escarpments, hidden coves, beaches squeezed between forested hills, and remote fishing villages, Vung Ro Bay has huge tourist potential. But, despite several mammoth investment plans and construction proposals by international corporations, there has so far been no large-scale development whatsoever. Vung Ro Bay and Bai Mon Beach are easily accessed via a spectacular coast road and visitor numbers outside of weekends and public holidays are still low. You can camp on the beach at Bai Mon

Near the southern tip of the Xuan Thinh Peninsula – a finger of land curling into the sea and hiding some extraordinary beaches – Bai Om is the holy grail of the entire area. A secluded beach of powdery sand perfectly pocketed between two rugged headlands and backed by coconut palms, Bai Om is so far completely undeveloped. I would imagine that, one day, Bai Om will be the jewel in the crown of Phu Yen Province, developed, no doubt, by some exclusive and astronomically-priced resort company. But, for now, it’s empty. However, sections of the bay are used as a trash dump by the local community (not to mention the litter left by day-trippers), so expect some plastic bags, glass beer bottles, and soda cans. Bai Om is accessed via small roads running along the western and eastern sides of the peninsula, but there’s no public transportation, so the beach is best visited with your own wheels: indeed, the whole region is ripe for exploration.